Attach it in place with 2" finishing nails into the studs in the wall.

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Updating a staircase video

Do each riser like before working down the stringers.

When they're all on, fill in the nail holes with vinyl spackle.

When the stained parts have dried, apply a coat of polyurethane on them. To get proper measurements for the skirt boards, you'll need to clean up the stringers first.

Cut away the overhang of the landing with a circular saw and hand saw, and remove any leftover frame pieces with the reciprocating saw.

The first newel post comes off, and the balusters up to the next post come out easily. Note that removing treads and risers is hard work because not only are they nailed down, but they're glued down as well. Cutting through the middle of the treads can help when prying them out.

Keep the damage to the drywall along the stairs to a minimum. Never shake the can because it creates bubbles that will be brushed on to the wood ruining the finish.

The staircase I inherited with the house was a hatchet job.

The original Victorian staircase had been ripped out and replaced with stained wooden planks of wood. The original banister and handrail had been painted in layers of yellowing paint, which was chipped in places.

Use a temporary riser with a 45-degree angle cut on the end as a guide.

Use it to make sure the finished risers will line up. Measure the risers from the wall to the outside edge of the skirt board, and then cut them to length, mitering the end at a 45-degree angle.

The spinals are original, but they are very ‘skinny’ looking and didn’t balance with the handrail.